Waking in Effingham Bay to a cold, dripping fog dropped the motivation to swim to a new low. My friends back on Lake Washington texting about swimming in the lake helped me look at the positive: water calm, all to myself, mystical, Loch Ness Monsters must be friendly in such a beautiful setting.
Fog in the morning at Effingham Bay. Swam around the small island and a rock to the right.
Almost same view, sun after noon
The biggest mussels are found in this bay!
And Anenomes
And Sea Stars with snowflake-like markings
The swim was well worth it and Patrick had the generator on for a hot shower and breakfast on returning with numb toes.
Then, on to Joe’s Bay, sun shining the way.
Joe’s Bay is a haven for kayakers with camps, rock outcroppings and island middens to visit by water. It gives a feel for the lives of those who subsisted on these islands for thousands of years.
Some of the middens are 10 feet deep, not that we did any digging!
This underwater rock wall, would be above water at low tide, likely used to trap fish as the tide dropped.
Most of the islands have quite rocky and overgrown shores with occasional beaches where kayakers launch, or camp. The tide range is only 3 feet this week. Coming again when there are low, low tides would allow more shore walks or tidepooling.
We toured the islands from the dinghy but turned around upon hitting some stiff winds and 3 foot swells on the Northwest side of Dodd Island and were joined by two beautiful sailboats in the protected bay.
A slip of fog in the Port San Juan (Renfrew) led us to a thick fogbank that enveloped and accompanied us all day. Glad for radar but tired as we monitored it along with the charts and the disorienting, hallucinatory fog. Swells grew to 4-6 feet, 6-7 seconds apart, uncomfortable but the wind, thankfully, died to 2 or less knots.
After 7 hours of this as the sun finally started breaking through, we reached Effingham Island , the largest island of the Broken Island Group. Its spacious bay empty, we had our pick of the best spot, close to the trail leading across the island. Ready for some land time, we launched the dinghy in search of said trail.
Heading up an open grassy patch into the woods on an apparent trail with cut logs and planks led 15 minutes along a tiny muddy creek, over slippery logs, to a dead end. Back to square 1. The trail is obvious once you see it. It is a typical Canadian National Marine Park trail, almost indistinguishable save for the amusing marine detritus markers.
Over or under this log? The blue to the right is Patrick, not a trail marker
A creation of metal, fish net, rope and who knows what else but it is pointing in the general direction of the trail
The forest is lovely, devoid of any thorns, or bothersome bugs, only slippery logs and hidden holes to mind. Some huge mother trees give a glimpse of an old growth forest. This is the only island in the Group that has a fresh water lake. It looks accessible from the East side of the island but not from this trail which leads to a midden. Now strewn with tree trunks, it is a lovely beach also for tide pooling.
We had read there was a sea cave on this island so took the dinghy for a spin after exploring the trail. We found it just past the midden! and a few other fun formations.
Around the other side, we discovered 2 different exits to this cave, very fun and so much more to explore. We returned to Arcturos very glad for the long foggy trip.
Up at 6:30, filled the water tank, shoved off ~7:20 AM. The Juan de Fuca Strait forecast was for 2 knot winds. It was blowing 20. Plenty of chop, 2 foot+ swells and white caps. We had discussed bagging the West Coast and heading to the Gulf Islands but decided to see what ocean boating was like with predicted swells of 3-5 feet, 8-9 seconds apart. We could always turn around if too uncomfortable. Past Sooke, the swells slowly built to 5-10 feet but their separation made them almost fun.
8 hours later, Port Renfrew was a haven from the rollers but we picked an anchorage outside the marina that took a direct hit from NW winds which fortunately diminished over night. Next time, Snuggly Cove should be a better option. Bailey slept happily without drugs.
Port Renfrew marina from our anchorage. Stayed aboard.
We had celebrated getting negative COVID tests the evening before, with freshly baked chocolate chip cookies, woke early on 8/25 to a perfect boating morning and set off at 6:50 AM for Victoria. We had the Straits to ourselves. Several hours later, as we approached Victoria, Pat reports that we have visitors off the Port side.
The Victoria Harbour Patrol was after us! The fellows were really very nice, asked for passports, promised they never dropped them in the drink, returned them safely, but then they asked for our ArriveCan (the App one completes to get approval to enter Canada) numbers. Oh my gosh! Brain turned to mush. I scurried around trying to find it on my phone or computer. No internet of course and for the life of me, I could not remember my ArriveCan Password to pull it up on my phone. Finally, assuring them I had completed ArriveCan up until we had our COVID tests return and they mercifully sent us on our way. Not until then, did I realize, I didn’t have an ArriveCan number because I had not completed the questionnaire the night before. Got that done in a hurry! A very nice greeter boat gave us a map of the marina and guided us to the empty, unmanned Customs Dock. Phone check in. 20 minutes on hold, someone answered, quickly disconnected, 10 minutes on hold. Next fellow was a keeper. I had to ask him if he wanted my ArriveCan number.
2 nights in Victoria moored directly in front of the Empress Hotel, the world parading by us, lovely!
One must follow the yellow buoys in this busy Harbour with Sea Planes coming and going regularly
On a 2.5 mile walk up the Victoria Harbour, these two otters decided to come ashore to entertain a growing crowd
Most of you who are getting these blog posts know this already. Our friend Ed was diagnosed with Lymphoma this summer and is in the midst of chemotherapy. Fighting cancer, finding a cure, raising funds for top rated, local research organizations across America, is what Swim Across America is about. It is my favorite fund raiser. The event is on September 11th but since we are on this trip, I am participating remotely, swimming off the boat in honor of Ed and also remembering all of my friends, family and colleagues who are or have suffered from these diseases.
8/24/21: Ready for the 1st swim to the “island” on the right, the tan line of rock. Guessing 1-1/3 miles round trip? so hard to tell! Easier than Ed’s journey!
Water temp. 57.5 degrees, air temp 68. I love my wet suit! Initially, I was aiming to swim around a buoy half way between the boat and the island. Pat egged me on, “Only to the buoy? You can go farther than that!” The buoy was a bit anticlimactic, home to a few cormorants. Hands a bit cold but, feet OK, try for the island, explore, sit in the sun for awhile, swim back. Go for it.
Arcturos from the swim, beyond is American Camp, San Juan Island
Popped over the rock to unsuspecting birds. Seagulls?
A still picture cannot capture the speed of the current. Birds seemed to enjoy riding the river. An Oyster catcher foraged and seals cruised around me, staring.
I was thrilled seeing long flowing seaweed beneath me, almost there, when something bumped me in the leg. Suddenly I was swimming for my life as the ebbing current flowing around the island grabbed me, dragging me towards the North side of the island to who knows where! Fortunately, it was only ?15-20 yards cross current to get to the island where an eddy around the north side invited me in, puffing away. The barnacles were not so inviting but it was fun exploring this rock, Sea Stars beneathe, startled birds above, Oyster catchers after a meal and seals rising a foot out of the water to see what had invaded their island. I could not figure out how to attach videos to this blog or you would see the current and island better.
From the island, the current runs around the corner into the Juan de Fuca Strait
This was a good lesson. Next time, I will try to figure out when the slack current is before setting off swimming near channels alone. After exploring, getting back to the boat was the next challenge. Eventually, the current would slow. Not eager to get caught in it on the way back, I waited on the rock, black wetsuit soaking up the sun, talking to the seals and birds.
Across the water, a dog barked. Bailey gets very excited when Pat starts getting the dinghy ready to go ashore. Bark, bark, bark! I stood and waved hoping Pat would see & have pitty on me.
From the boat, Pat could see me sitting on the rock and sitting, and sitting. Not until he reached the island, could he see the dilemma. Our dinghy has a substantial 30 HP engine for its size. Even so, the speed of the current made it unsafe to land. I waded to a point that looked safe for him to approach without hitting rocks and jumped for the boat, grabbing the handle on the bow and one on the Port side, clinging on as he turned and powered away for what felt like forever, to calmer water where I could kick, pull and flop back into the boat.
My knight in shining armor with still happily drugged Bailey
A fitting swim for Ed, I thought, a very fun adventure with a great outcome. Ed, we are wishing you an excellent outcome too!!
For those of you who have not donated to Swim Across America, Seattle, please do! It’s a great cause.
Well the tests weren’t back in 24 hours and we decided to move a bit closer to Victoria to maximize our time in Canada. Fisherman’s Bay on Lopez or Friday Harbor on San Juan Island sounded good, a bit closer, less of a straight shot across the Juan de Fuca Straits which can get pretty roley poley. The trip was pretty gentle but Bailey still had a rough time. Aceprotabs to the rescue, 1/2 a tablet. An hour later, he doesn’t care who picks him up, it’s all good.
Moon rising over our Port Hadlock anchorage, 8/23
Port Hadlock sunrise
Passing Port Townsend: As soon as we passed this lighthouse into Admiralty Inlet, the waves kicked up a notch too much for Bailey. Earlier, we passed a Navy ship unloading at their base off Marrowstone Island. Tailed by a patrol boat, gun prominently displayed on the bow, we feigned disinterest
American Camp looms large on San Juan and we noted some temporary anchorage on the Northwest side of it. Closer than either of our proposed destinations, to Victoria, we decided to give it a try. Exposed to the North and East, protected from the South and West in calm weather deserved a chance. The pass between San Juan and Lopez Islands demands attention not only for its beauty but for rocks, deadheads, boats and swirling debris. Once past, just around the corner is sizeable Griffin Bay. You will get a view from my swimming destination. More on that with the next post.
A look back after coming around the small rocky “island” to the left, past the buoy into Griffin Bay. Maybe I could swim around that island later and visit the birds and seals?
COVID tests were on our minds. Checking every hour or two, always results pending. By 2 PM we decided we would not move on if they returned this day so called the Victoria Marina and rescheduled reservations for Wednesday through Friday. That evening, back from an after dinner hike Pat checked again. They are back! Both Negative! Canada, here we come!!
Whew! Crazy busy day with parent care, COVID tests, more parent care, wash, cleaning, packing, driving, unloading, loading “Jo, you ready to go?” YES! We’re off at 3:25 PM. Blue skys, squinting into the sun reflecting off the water, gentle breeze, fish jumping, engines humming….all the stress of the day melts away. Supplies stashed, Bailey demands attention even though the water is flat, beautiful flat! He is happy sitting on the Bow with me. Tough job! Pat is pushing Arcturos due to the late hour, an uncharacteristic 8-8.5 knots. 3 hours later we quickly approach Port Townsend canal, zipping through at 10 knots despite throttling down. Beautiful calm water, peaceful setting, we stay aboard tonight, grilled Bahn Mi sandwiches. yum!
I thought I was taking a video of the gorgeous canal and bridge, sadly not! Maybe there will be a nice sunrise. Hoping the COVID tests come back tomorrow. While waiting will head to Friday Harbor or Fisherman’s bay, a shorter trip to Victoria if the tests are not back yet, Crossing fingers!
After the storm, Floating docks…sort of Bowman BaySunset from Bowman Bay
It was a beautiful morning. Seas were calm. Sucia Island was in view, an hour away. I took over driving Arcturos as Pat went down for a routine engine check. It’s never good news to see a cupful of oil coating the floor below an engine. The hydraulics of the Starboard engine had sprung a leak. Pat checked the breather tube (whatever that is) which wasn’t clogged. That would have been the only easy fix.
The good news is that Arcturos has twin Lugger engines. Shut down Starboard, turn towards home on Port engine, we did.
I’ve always wanted to stay in Bowman Bay at Deception Pass State Park which has wonderful trails, swimming & kayaking opportunities. But, as it is open to the South and West and situated at the end of the Juan de Fuca Straits, swells from the Pacific Ocean find little to no hindrance, nor do the 15+knot Southwesterlies that accompanied us into the Bay this day as waves crashed over Coffin Rocks daring for us to enter. Pat humored me coming here, maneuvering past the ominous rocks and the obstacle course of crab pots coming perfectly alongside the creaking, groaning, rolling, partially floating dock and shattering the peace of a lone fisherman and a small sailboat.
Keeping the bucking Arcturos perfectly alongside the rickety dock was the next challenge. I was able to meet the rising dock amidships to secure the forward Spring line but as Bruce hopped off and pulled in the Bowline the stern tried to escape. Cindy tossed me the aft Spring line, as the fisherman joined me in a tug of war with the sea. It was close but we won. Despite our heartfelt thanks the poor fellow left to find a more peaceful fishing spot.
The dock was not as bad as initially thought. Several parallel sections allow it to rise and fall with the waves. We hogged 1/2 the dock, the newer distal section with metal railings. The bowline was tied to the older wooden dock which is trying to sink. Good enough. Not ideal! While we enjoyed the beautiful Park, hiked and kayaked, viewed a gorgeous sunset, slept well and woke to a calmer morning, we won’t be back. Besides the previously mentioned reasons, this is a very shallow bay. We deserted the dock in the morning to avert grounding in the almost minus 2 tide, anchoring among the crabpots while awaiting slack current through Deception Pass.
Instead of a bay full of boats at Sucia, though, we were gifted a sunset all to ourselves in beautiful Bowman Bay.
Our very 1st overnight stay on Arcturos was here at Blind Bay on Shaw Island off of Blind Bay State Park. Fortunately, it was not filled with boats as it is today. We would have provided endless entertainment for any neighbors as we demonstrated our ill equipped incompetence in hooking up to a mooring buoy in a 15+ knot wind.
But today, we are happily swinging on the hook with Cindy and Bruce, friends from Tucson, numerous boats providing the show.
Plenty of company in Blind Bay
Swimming off the boat in a crowded bay with boats coming and going isn’t exactly the wilderness experience we hope to find on a trip around Vancouver Island. With safety in mind, Bruce and Cindy agreed to accompany me in their inflatable kayak during my swim to the park.
Blind Bay Swim 8/4/21
Still waiting for a “Go” on the Vancouver Island flotilla, we are planning an alternate trip counterclockwise around the South end of the Island by ourselves. Will keep you posted!
Blind Bay State Park
Water temperature in Blind Bay
But today, we are heading for Sucia Islands where we eagerly anticipate kayaking, swimming and hiking in and around our favorite San Juan destination, despite an even larger gaggle of boats!
Swim Across America is a favorite fund raising event which supports primary cancer research in cities across America. In Seattle, it is held on the 1st Saturday after Labor Day each year, this year on 9/11/21. I had swum in the event for 10 years before last year when we signed up for a guided boating flotilla trip scheduled for September 2020, around Vancouver Island which, of course, was rescheduled to this year due to the COVID-19 pandemic. We have been waiting patiently for: 1. the Canadian Border to open and 2. a “go” date from the Flotilla leaders.
Meanwhile, last month our friend Ed McCarthy was diagnosed with Lymphoma. All the more reason to swim for cancer research! I decided to join Swim Across America (SAA) again in honor of and in support of Ed. SAA has a “Virtual” swim option for those who cannot make the in-person event. I am calling my virtual event “Swim Around Vancouver Island” with the plan of swimming at as many places on our trip around Vancouver Island as possible, blogging along the way to Ed and Carmi and whomever else wants to remotely come along for the ride. Ed, this one’s for you!
But then my step sister, Nina, was diagnosed with Lung Cancer! And there are a minimum of 45 other friends and family members who have been touched by this disease over the years. All will be remembered along the way. Thank you for joining us in supporting friends and family members dealing with cancer now, remembering those who we have lost and celebrating with our survivors.
We are thrilled that the Canadians are welcoming Vaccinated people into Canada as of August 16th! We are still waiting for the Flotilla organizers to give us a “GO”. So this year of uncertainty continues and we will keep you posted! No matter what, we will be out on the boat in September, whether in Puget Sound or in the Straights of Georgia, Johnstone Strait and the Pacific! Wherever we are, we will be swimming for you, Ed and you too, Nina and for many others.
Tina, Suzanne, & Mary Jo 9/10/17 after 2 miles for Swim Across America, Seattle
Holeinthewater 